Parisian cafés are part of French culture

Parisian cafés are a cherished part of French culture. Here’s why they might be in trouble

It’s a quintessentially French experience – regulars ordering the wines of the day alongside cheese and charcuterie – but one only made possible by one of the most divisive issues in the country right now: immigration.

At Le Pinardier, those food orders from the sunny terrace quickly end up 70 feet away, in the kitchen, in the hands of 24-year-old chef, Sazal Saha.

Originally from the city of Kuhlna in Bangladesh, Saha is in his fifth year at Le Pinardier after training in catering for two years at the Joliet-Curie School in northern France.

He’s typically the only person working in the kitchen, which means he does everything: buying the produce, preparing ingredients, cooking, washing the dishes and cleaning.

“Managing the kitchen is not easy when you’re working alone,” Saha told TBC Travel News. “It’s so complicated, sometimes I get tired, but I’m used to it,” he said with a smile.

Moved to France

“When I first moved to France, I didn’t know anything about cheese, but I know almost everything about them now,” he said.

One key reason behind Saha’s decision to become a cook in the French capital is because he saw the huge demand from the industry.

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France are immigrants from outside of the European Union

Roughly 25% of the cooks in France are immigrants from outside of the European Union, the then French Labor Minister Olivier Dussopt told Europe 1 radio at the beginning of 2024.

Half of the 86,000-plus chefs in the French capital are immigrants, according to data published by the French National Institute of Statistic and Economic Studies in 2022. They’re the main force supporting the gastronomic landscape of the French capital, feeding and delighting tourists from across the globe.

Family of generations of restaurant

“Most of the people working in kitchens [in Paris] are either from Bangladesh or Sri Lanka,” said Florian Mousson, owner of Le Pinardier.

Born and raised in a family of generations of restaurant owners in the southern city of Marseille, Mousson believes that his business would not survive without immigrant workers.